Showing posts with label Knitting Magazine Reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Knitting Magazine Reviews. Show all posts

Wednesday 24 August 2011

Vogue/Designer Knitting Fall 2011 Review

It's review time again! Autumn is upon us already, can you believe it?
Here goes with a review of Vogue/Designer Knitting Fall 2011. I have taken all of the photos from the Vogue Knitting website unless otherwise stated.

I plan on pricing the largest size available for each pattern, as that is the one I would most likely knit. If I can get the yarn in Ireland, I use that price, otherwise Euro prices are US Dollar prices converted, not inclusive of postage.

Substitute yarns I suggest are my own choice, your mileage may vary. I try to use the same fibres as the suggested yarn where possible, but will use others I think would be good if I can't find it. I have used 4 main online Irish retailers for my prices and will vary between them for fairness. I haven't priced anything using mostly acrylic, but if you want me to, let me know in the comments. Also, if you want me to say where I am getting my prices from, let me know too.

Let me say that I love this magazine, and I don't mean this review as poking fun at it, more a light hearted reflection of it, and also maybe it will make the magazine think about the cost of the sponsored yarns it uses and the sizes it offers.

On a side note, a lot of the patterns in this issue use bulky weight yarn. I find it difficult to get here, and so am using Chunky and Super Chunky.. Sometimes I'll switch between them when recommending subs if I think one might be better than another. My advice though, would be to SWATCH before using.

There's another great article from Meg Swansen, this time about short row methods. Great stuff. There's also an advertisement section about sock knitting, called Sock-Cess which has a few nice sock patterns in it.

Again with the no Norah Gaughan design. I haz a sad.

It seems Nancy Marchant is becoming the New Nicky Epstein ™ with her regular column in brioche knitting. This time its a hat. I couldn't find an online picture of it, so you'll have to use your imagination. It's not the worst hat I've seen. The recommended yarn is Aslan Trends Invernal, an angora/merino/polyamide blend. It comes in at $32.70 or €22.72. I'd sub Spud & Chloe Sweater for €23 or Rowan Pure Wool Aran for €19.

Right, on to the meat of the sandwich. Here we go!

The first section is called Masterpiece Classics. "What's a romantic heroine to wear on a windswept moor?" immediately conjures up inages of Heathcliff, Cathy and Kate Bush. The hairdos are pretty special too, they remind me of Helena Bonham-Carter after a mad night out.

First up it's #1 Nordic Gloves by Lone Smevik Soleng:

Size: One size medium
Yarn: Skacel Cashmere Fino 100% Cashmere, 4 skeins
Weight: DK
Cost to knit: $100 or €69.49

€70 to knit a pair of mittens? Not on your nelly. Even if it is cashmere. The design is beautiful though. I love Scandinavian mittens. Lots of subs available for this, try Artesano Alpaca for €22 or Debbie Bliss Andes for €27.80.

Next is #2 Squirrel Cardigan by Yoko Hatta:

Size: 4 sizes 36.5 - 48"
Yarn: Berroco Ultra Alpaca 50% Alpaca 50% Wool 215yds/100g, 7 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $70 or €48.64

 I love this design! Cute little squirrels all over the waistband! Autumn is the perfect time for this when they're gathering up all their nuts. Cute as all get-out. I'd love to make this one. And the yarn is one of my faves too, very reasonable IMO. Subs were hard to find that were less expensive than the recommended yarn, even including shipping from the US so I'd say go ahead & order some. Otherwise how about Artesano Aran for €109.45 or Malabrigo Merino Worsted for €89.60.

Next we have #3 Nordic Cardigan by Shiri Mor:
Size: 2 sizes (!) 32 & 36" Sheesh.
Yarn: Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran 55% Merino, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere 100yds/50g, 11 skeins
         Debbie Bliss Angel 76% Mohair, 24% Silk 220yds/25g 4 Skeins
Weight: Aran and Lace
Cost to knit: Available in Ireland for €63.25 and €35.80 respectively

Seriously, 2 sizes and the largest is 36". It's a fairly standard Nordic style cardigan. I'm not going to bother suggesting subs as you can get the yarn here plus if they can't be bothered working out sizes I can't be bothered working out alternates. Grr.

Moving on swiftly to #4 Oversize Nordic Pullover by Kristin Nicholas:

Size: 4 sizes 38 - 53.5"
Yarn: Rowan Creative Focus Worsted 75% wool, 25% Alpaca 220yds/100g, 12 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $57.48 or €39.94 on sale. I think this yarn is being discontinued.

Off to a good start using yarn that is being discontinued. But, it means a great price to knit it I guess. I like the diamond within a diamond stitch and the hip band that appears to go in a different direction. A nice sweater, IMO. Sub with Drops Nepal for €85.80 or get the recommended yarn at the bargain price above.


Next we have #5 Colourwork Vest by Cheryl Murray:

Size: 5 sizes 40 - 52.5"
Yarn: Aslan Trends Royal Alpaca 100% Alpaca 220yds/100g, 8 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $110.80 or €76.99

This one looks interesting. A zipper? Ooh does that mean steeking? I love steeking. I don't like the neckline and I'd have to add sleeves, so basically I'd want a completely different garment that the one pictured. But. Colourwork and steeking and zipper insertion. Oh my. Substitute Artesano Aran for €129.35 or get the real stuff from Jamieson & Smith in Shetland for a measly €63.42. I LOVE Shetland wool.


Have you been noticing the mad Helena Bonham-Carter hair, by the way? Nuts. They must have gone through a ton of hairspray and broken several combs in the lust for backcombed height. The poor models hair probably fell out afterwards from the abuse.

Next it's #6 Snowflake Jacket by Kazekobo. She of the gazillion capes in the last issue. There's also a cowl in this picture, can you find it?

Size: 4 sizes 36 - 48"
Yarn: Muench Yarns Touch Me 72% Rayon, 28% Wool 61yds/50g, 28 skeins. Yes 28 fpr the jacket, 7 for the cowl.
Lana Grossa Silkhair 70% Mohair, 30% Silk 230yds/25g 10 skeins for the jacket, 2 for the cowl.
Weight: Aran and Lace
Cost to knit:  $529.56 or €367.91 for the jacket and $175.65 or €122.04 for the cowl

Hahahahahaha a jacket and cowl combo for €490????????? Oh my God. I think I've had an accident laughing so hard. What a joke. Who are they kidding with this shit? If it was made of Qiviut then maybe it's an acceptable price, but rayon? C'mon. I don't even think I have an opinion on the jacket for that money. As for the cowl, you can't even see it in the picture! Jesus wept. And the yarn name, Touch Me? I think not love, not at the price you charge! You could sub Drops Alaska for the "Touch Me Not" and Lang Alpaca Superlight for the Silkhair at a cost of €89.95 for the jacket and €25.35 for the cowl. But why would you??? 

Onwards (and hopefully upwards) to #7 Nordic Yoke Pullover by Ruth Garcia-Alcantud:

Size: 4 sizes 31 - 37"
Yarn: Brown Sheep Nature Spun Sport 100% wool 184yds/50g 9 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $22.20 or €15.42

Now THAT'S more like it! I love Brown Sheep yarn, and the Nature Spun sport is one I've used a few times before. It's a nice pattern. I like the subtle corrugated ribbing at the cuffs and hem, and the yoke pattern is cute.  You can sometimes get Brown Sheep yarn here, but sub with Rowan Pure Wool 4ply for €52.50 or Drops Alpaca for €34.65 if you like. Shame about the model's trousers though, kinda reminds me of this:

Hammer Time!

The next offering is #8 Fair Isle Hat by Mary Ann Stephens:

Size: One size
Yarn: Cascade 220 Sport 100% wool 220yds/100g 2 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $10 or €6.94

That's great value to knit such a lovely hat. I'm not so sure about the tassel, but the stitch pattern on the hat is lovely. Sub Drops Alpaca for €11.55 or Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino for €23.80.

This is the last offering in the current section. #9 Fair Isle Cardigan by Rosemary Drysdale:

Size: 5 sizes, 34.5 - 56.5"
Yarn: Filatura Di Crosa Zara Chiné 100% wool, 137yds/50g 17 skeins
         Filatura Di Crosa Zara 100% Merino 137yds/50g 1 skein
Weight: DK
Cost to knit: $134.82 or €93.69

Meh. Nothing special. Don't like the really wide buttonband, hate the lazy "fair isle" only on the front. Boring boring boring. This could have been so much nicer. If it's your cup of tea, substitute Debbie Bliss Rialto for €130.90 (or maybe not), Rowan Pure Wool DK for €88.35 or yummy Cushendale DK for a mere €66. Perfect.

A new section now. The excitement! This one is called "Anything but your basic cable!" and all the garments are in pea soup green. Yum. Anyone else humming along to the theme from the Exorcist with me?
The first pattern is #10 Cable Raglan Dress by Sarah Hatton:

Size: 4 sizes 35 - 39.5"
Yarn: Rowan Lima 84% Alpaca, 8% Merino, 8% Nylon 109yds/50g 15 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: Available here for €124.50

This dress is gorgeous. If you're lucky enough to be in the restrictive size range, make it. Honest. It's fab. Love! I'm not subbing with this one as the yarn is so readily available here. I look forward to seeing this on a real knitter soon....

Can #11 Cabled Cardigan by Mari Tobita top the last one?

Size: 5 sizes 34 - 48"
Yarn: Lion Brand Superwash Merino Cashmere 72% Merino, 15% Nylon, 13% Cashmere 87yds/40g 28 skeins. Yes. Another 28 skein project.
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $265.72 or €184.65

Sigh. I was all ready to do a Bob the Builder and shout "Yes it can do better!" then I saw the price to knit. Sigh. The pattern is gorgeous though. I love the collar and the length, and the stitch pattern. It's yum. Substitutions using the same fibres aren't much cheaper unfortunately. I think this cardigan might be one that got away. Subs include Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran for €148.75 or Sublime Cashmere Merino Silk Aran for €154.70.

Next we have #12 Cabled Shrug by Devin Cole:

Size: 3 sizes 38 - 43"
Yarn: Prism Symphony 80% Merino, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon 118yds/57g 10 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $180 or €125.08

As with all Prism yarns (as far as I can see) they are very expensive. I'm also not mad about the variegation here, I think it hides all the pattern details. I quite like the front v-neck, but I also spy bobbles on the body. Bobbles & I are not what you would call best friends. Substitute Artesano Aran for €89.55 or Drops Alaska for just €37.50

Our next contender is #13 Wave Cable Jacket by Ellen Ligouri:

Size: 4 sizes 40 - 55.5"
Yarn: Cascade Rustic 79% wool, 21% Linen 196yds/100g 9 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $130.50 or €90.68

I love this one. From the comfy looking turtle neck to the wrapover front to the columns down the front. Yum. I bet this would be great as a coat in the Autumn. Mm.And the yarn cost isn't too bad considering. The nearest I can come to it is Drops Bomull-Lin for €79.80.

The next one is a real doozy. #14 Ribbon Cable Cardi by Helen Sharp:

Size: 4 sizes 34 - 47"
Yarn: Zitron Ecco 100% Merino 120yds/50g 18 skeins
         Skacel Kid Seta 70% Mohair 30% Silk 230yds/25g 9 skeins
         15yds ribbon
Weight: DK and Lace
Cost to knit: €170 Sorry, no $ for this one

Well. What can I say. It's a perfectly nice cardi that has fugly ribbon threaded all the way through it. Huh? How the hell do you wash this without the ribbon getting all staggly? When you sit down the back will be flattened. It's wrong. Just wrong. Shame really, as the cardi itself is ok. I suppose you could make it and leave the ribbon out. In that case, sub with Malabrigo Merino DK & Debbie Bliss Angel for €223.75 (!) or Artesano Superwash Merino & Lang Alpaca Superlight for €132.60.

Has anyone else noticed how many of these patterns so far use a main yarn and a Kid Silk Haze type yarn held together? Why? 

The last in the current section is #15 Ribbed Turtleneck by Pat Olski:
Size: 4 sizes 30 - 39"
Yarn: Plymouth Worsted Merino Superwash 100% Merino 218yds/100g
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $271.92 or €188.96

Wow. Lots going on here. 4 sizes stretched out over 9"? C'mon. The cost to knit isn't unsubstantial either! The sweater itself is nice, if a bit tight fitting for my taste. I like the eyelet detail down the arm. Otherwise it's quite a plain ribbed sweater. Substitute Malabrigo Merino Worsted for €103.50 or Artesano Aran for €119.40 or Drops Alaska for €55.

A new section especially for Vogue's favourite insanely expensive yarn designer, Twinkle. This one is called Stripe it Right and the first offering is #16 Striped Cardi by Wenlan Chia:

Size: 3 sizes 54 - 62"
Yarn: Twinkle Soft Chunky 100% Wool 83yds/200g 12 skeins
Weight: Super Bulky
Cost to knit: $300 or €208.47

I just don't get the appeal of this designer. Everything is baggy, misshapen and huge. Not to mention rediculously expensive to knit! Super Bulky yarn is hard to come by here, so I'm kinda grasping at straws with these sub reccommendations. Knit at your peril. Drops Eskimo for €45.60, Lang Malou for €91


#17 Striped Back Top  by Wenlan Chia:

Size: 3 sizes 40 - 48"
Yarn: Twinkle Soft Chunky 100% Wool 83yds/200g 8 skeins
Weight: Super Bulky
Cost to knit: $200 or €138.98

*Yawn* A cardi that's oversized, But WAIT! It has something different! Oh yes! there's no stripes on the front. Sneaky. *Yawn* Again, sub at your peril with Schoeller & Stahl Filzi for €45.50 or Drops Eskimo for €31.20.

The next section is The Art of Lace. First up is #18 Lace Cardi & Cowl by E J Slayton:

Size: 5 sizes 36.5 - 52.5"
Yarn: Classic Elite Alpaca Sox Kettle Dyes 60% Alpaca, 20% Merino, 20% Nylon 450yds/100g 6 skeins
Weight: Fingering
Cost to knit: $119.70 or €83.18

Pretty lace. I think the colour is seducing me more though, isn't it pretty? As a cardi goes, I reckon this is quite impractical. The cowl would probably do my head in getting in the way and having to keep wrapping it rounf my neck as the cardi moved. Still, it is lovely. Sub with any sock yarn at all, try Drops Fabel Plain for €33.80 or spoil yourself with Malabrigo Sock for €132.65. Yeah.

On to #19 Lace Turtleneck by Blue Alvarez:

Size: 3 sizes 31.5 - 43" BOO
Yarn: Tilli Thomas Sock 90% Merino 10% nylon 400yds/100g 5 skeins
         Tilli Thomas Symphony Lace 63% Mohair, 18% Nylon, 10% Silk, 9% Wool 345yds/85g 3 skeins
Weight: Fingering & Lace
Cost to knit: $173.60 or €120.63

Ooh. how cool is this? It's like one top layered over another, but they're joined. I think this is really interesting. Not that I'd be able to knit it, thanks a bunch for the crappy sizing Vogue. I think this one might require some more research on my part, just to see how it's done. Very ingenious. Sub with Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply and Debbie Bliss Angel for €110.20


Over halfway there now. #20 Lace Bodice Top by Laura Zukaite:

Size: 3 sizes 40 - 48"
Yarn: Artyarns Beaded Ensemble 85% Silk, 15% Cashmere 125yds/100g 7 Skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $460.25 or €319.84

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA €320 for this? HAHAHAHAHAHAHA I have no more words.
There's no sub for this yarn I could find as it has beads & stuff in it, so just buy any worsted weight yarn and thread the beads on yourself. You'll save a bomb.


#21 Lace Shawl by Candace Eisner Strick has to be better than the last joke:

Size: One size
Yarn: Classic Elite Fresco 60% Wool 30% Alpaca, 10% Angora 164yds/50g 5 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $47.50 or €33

Quite a pretty shawl. Not so sure if that's picot edging I see. If it is, then I doubt I'd be bothered with it. Picot is a pain. The stitch down the centre is cool though. Sub Drops Alpaca for €19.25

Another new section. This one is called All About Ease. First up is #22 Bulky Topper by Mari Lynn Patrick:

Size: 5 sizes 35.5 - 44.5"
Yarn: Zealana Tui 70% Merino, 15% Possum, 15% Cashmere 121yds/100g 8 skeins
Weight: Bulky
Cost to knit: $163.20 or €113.41

I like the neckline, but the rest is rather plain, no? Not my kind of garment. All that reverse stocking stitch would drive me nuts! Sub with Rowan Cocoon for €89.55 or Twilleys Freedom Purity Eco Chunky for €51.35

#23 Cowl Neck Pullover by Maie Landra is next:

Size: 5 sizes 40 - 55"
Yarn: Koigu Kersti 100% Merino 114yds/50g 14 skeins
Weight: DK
Cost to knit: $210 or €145.93

Another laughable cost to knit. Seriously? It's just a long pullover with short sleeves and a turtleneck. I don't understand short sleeves on a heavy outer garment like this. Don't other people's arms get cold? Is it just me? If your arms are nice & warm, then sub with Lousia Harding Merletto for €92.65 or Rowan Pure Wool DK for €59.40.

#24 Lace Belted Cape by Kristin Omdahl:

Size: 1 size *eyeroll*
Yarn: Manos Wool Classica 100% wool 138yds/100g
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: Available here for €100

Another cape. And in one size. But wait, is it really a cape? It has sleeves like a cardigan, has a belt like a cardigan and is long like a cardigan. I'm confused. I don't like being confused. No subs suggested as I'm just too confused. 

Hopefully #25 Rib Yoke Topper by Anna Cohen will sort my poor head out:

Size: 5 sizes 48 - 56.5"
Yarn: Imperial Yarns Colombia 100% Cotton 220yds/113g 7 skeins
Weight: Bulky
Cost to knit: $119 or €82.69

I quite like this. It reminds me of grandfather shirts from years ago. Looks quite comfy too. The sleeves look a bit flappy but otherwise a nice enough garment. Sub with Drops Ice for €86.40 or Lang Big Cotton for €107.10

I love the name of the next one. #26 Cowl by Vladimir Teriokhin. Does exactly what it says on the tin. Must have taken hours to come up with. Oh, and it's crochet!!! Shock!!:

Size: One size.
Yarn: Bergere de France Fourrure 100% Acrylic 19yds/100g 4 skeins
Weight: Super Bulky
Cost to knit: €28

AHHH Fun Fur Attack!!! Run quick before it melts all over your bebehs and eats your silk stash!!!!!
Evil. That's all I'll say. However, each to their own, so if this is yours, then subbing could be fun. I've never seen a super bulky "fun" fur before, so how about holding two strands of the fun together. Double your "fun"! Try Sirdar "Funky" Fur for €15.80. Or not. I'm not.

Vladimir returns, this time with #27 Jacket. Another ground breaking name.

Size: 3 sizes 52 - 60"
Yarn: Bergere de France Alpaga 70% Alpaca 30% Wool 98yds/50g 24 skeins. !!24!!
Weight: Fingering
Cost to knit: €192

What kind of nutty yardage is that for a fingering weight yarn. 98yds??? Madness. Plus, it's another yarn that's been discontined. Tut tut Vogue, your reasearchers are letting you down. Sub any sock yarn you like for this one, as patterns go it's not that bad at all. Try Drops Alpaca for €46.20.

Down to the final 10 patterns now. Yipee! #28 Cropped Topper by Faith Hale:

Size: 3 sizes 38 - 46"
Yarn: Trendsetter Super Kid Seta 70% Mohair 30% Silk, 230yds/25g 8 skeins
         Trendsetter Vigna 52% wool, 48% Acrylic 104yds/50g 8 skeins
Weight: Lace & Worsted
Cost to knit: $199.20 or €138.42

Seriously, that's €140 for yarn that's half acrylic. Yep. It's a basic open fronted cardigan with short sleeves. Nothing to see, move along please. Sub Lang Merino + and Lang Alpaca Superlight for €70.20 if you must.


The final section now, called What you want now! and the first offering is #29 Hooded Neck Piece by Kalurah Hudson:

Size: 1 size
Yarn: Alpaca with a Twist Baby Twist 100% Alpaca 110yds/50g 8 skeins
Weight: DK
Cost to knit: $288 or €200.14

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA What I want Now? Listen Vogue, What I Want Now is decent patterns at a decent cost to knit. €200 for a balaclava with a thousand buttons on it is most certainly not What I Want Now. ThankYouVeryMuch. Jesus. Sub with Artesano Alpaca for €49.50. And pass me the Valium.

#30 Lace Scarf is next bu Carol J Sulcoski:

Size: 1 Size
Yarn: Buffalo Gold Lux 45% Bison, 20% Cashmere, 15% Tencel, 20% Silk 330yds/40g 2 skeins
Weight: Lace
Cost to knit: $110 or €76.44

It's kind of hard to see the pattern in the picture as the scarf is bunched round the models neck and also hidden by being placed over similar colours. Looks ok though. Sub with Malabrigo Lace doe €19 or Manos Lace for €30.

#31 Textured Hat by Simona Merchant-Dest:

Size: 1 size
Yarn: Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 8ply 100% Cashmere 100yds/55g 2 skeins
Weight: Bulky
Cost to knit: $82 or €56.98

Boring hat, but I bet it feels amazing knit in 100% cashmere. Although I'd be terrified it would rain or snow and the hat would be ruined! If you are like me but want to knit it, try Mirasol Ushya for €27.90.

#32 Fingerless Gloves by Judy Sumner are next:

Size: 1 size
Yarn: Lornas Laces Shepherd Sport 100% Wool 200yds/50g 1 skein
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $13.50 or €9.38

They're fingerless gloves. Cute. I like the wrist ruffles. But am I mistaken or is the stitch pattern the same as Snapdragon Mittens (Ravlink). Well if it is, then these are off my list. I've seen peoples Snapdragons and what the stitch turned out looking like (ladybits). Especially in red. No thank you! If you don't care, then sub with Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino for €11.90

Down to the last 5 patterns! Woo! #33 Leaf Mittens by Pat Olski:

Size: 1 size
Yarn: The Fibre Company Canopy Worsted 50% Alpaca, 30% Merino, 20% Bamboo 100yds/50g 2 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $26 or €18.06
Mittens. I love mittens. Can't get enough of them Not so sure about the bobbles though. Sub Drops Nepal for a steal at €7.80. Might even make me consider the bobbles at that price!

#34 Lace Scarf by Nancy McMillan is next:

Size: 1 size
Yarn: Kauni Wool 8/2 Solids 90% Wool 10% Acrylic 656yds/150g
Weight: Fingering
Cost to knit: $21.60 or €15.01

A pretty scarf. Something I will probably make, you can never have enough scarves in my opinion. I might sub Lang Jawoll Sock for just €8.55, making it even more attractive!

3rd last is #35 Icord Gloves by Karen D Hendrick-Hands:

Size: 1size
Yarn: Misti Alpaca Tonos Worsted 50% Alpaca, 50% Wool 218yds/100g 2 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $37.60 or €26.12

These remind me a lot of a pair of socks I made Alice from Sensational Knitted Socks, the Crosshatch Lace Socks. I think it's the same stitch pattern. A nice functional pair of gloves. A great Christmas gift knit. Sub Artesano Aran for €29.85

In 2nd last place we have #36 Cabled Leg Warmers by Kazekobo:

Size: 1 size (coz everyones legs up to the knees are the same)
Yarn: Knit 1 Crochet Too Brae Tweed 60% Merino, 20% Llama, 10% Wool, 10% Bamboo 109yds/50g 3 skeins.
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $23.55 or €16.36

Hmm. Leg warmers. Do people actually wear these? Wouldn't your feet be cold and lonely without some coverage too? Wasn't Fame years ago? If you want to make these, then never mind the scratchiness, dive in and use Studio Donegal Aran Tweed for just €11.80.

It's the last one! #37 Braided Cowl by Laura Zukaite:

Size: 1 size
Yarn: Mango Moon Capra 70% Mohair 30% Silk 270yds/25g 3 skeins
Weight: Lace
Cost to knit: $37.50 or €26.05

Jeez, I'm sick of typing out the same kinds of yarn over and over. How many projects used laceweight mohair/silk blends? Imagine wearing this round your neck too. Itch itch itch.Apart from that, it's an interesting pattern. I would probably wear it more bunched up though, but I must check it out to see the construction method. Sub with any of the gazillions of mohair silk blends out there like Debbie Bliss Angel for €35.80 or Kid Silk Haze for €39.


So that's it! You've survived another review. Overall I'm quite disapponited (again) in the size ranges, but more so with the variety of patterns in this issue. Not much that I would contemplate and too many that I'd have to sell a kidney to knit.

Hope you enjoyed it, please do tell me what you think in the comments. I'm always looking for feedback and ideas.

Monday 6 June 2011

Vogue/Designer Knitting Early Fall 2011 Review

It's review time again! It feels like only recently I reviewed the Spring/Summer edition, but here goes with a review of Vogue/Designer Knitting Early Fall 2011. I have taken all of the photos from the Vogue Knitting website unless otherwise stated.

I plan on pricing the largest size available for each pattern, as that is the one I would most likely knit. If I can get the yarn in Ireland, I use that price, otherwise Euro prices are US Dollar prices converted, not inclusive of postage.

Substitute yarns I suggest are my own choice, your mileage may vary. I try to use the same fibres as the suggested yarn where possible, but will use others I think would be good if I can't find it. I have used 4 main online Irish retailers for my prices and will vary between them for fairness. I haven't priced anything using mostly acrylic, but if you want me to, let me know in the comments. Also, if you want me to say where I am getting my prices from, let me know too.

Let me say that I love this magazine, and don't mean this review as poking fun at it, more a light hearted reflection of it, and also maybe it will make the magazine think about the cost of the sponsored yarns it uses and the sizes it offers.

On a side note, a lot of the patterns in this issue use sport weight yarn. This weight is very difficult to get here, we really only have 4ply/fingering or DK. Sometimes I'll switch between them when recommending subs if I think one might be better than another. My advice though, would be to SWATCH before using.

There is NO Nicky Epstein section. I am in shock. Maybe they had some big falling out over fees, or maybe she's trapped in an elevator somewhere screaming to be let out, she's missing her deadline. Or maybe she just couldn't bring herself to come up with another two page pile of nothing. Who knows. Either way, I'm not upset.

The Meg Swansen article is amazeballs, as always. This one is all about her new book, Knit One Knit All, which uses previously unpublished EZ patterns all in garter stitch. EZ has published from beyond the grave! Oh happy day. Needless to say I already knew this and my copy is winging its way to me as I speak and I wait with breathless anticipation. NEW EZ!! My cup runneth over.

There's also an interesting article on schematics by Carol Sucolski. But, another disappointment comes in the form of NO Norah Gaughan design. Come back Norah, don't leave me! It's dark and cold here without you.

I downloaded this edition of the magazine using the Vogue Knitting iPad app. The app is free, and the magazine cost € 3.99, a great saving compared to the €7.95 I pay for the print edition. I love the app, they have books and mags available, plus all the patterns have links to the 360 views on the website. Brillo! I don't know if I'll cancel my print subscription, I like having the print issues to flick through, but I could be tempted. We'll see.

Get yourself a cuppa & a biscuit and let's get going, shall we?

The first pattern is #1 Brioche Socks by Alexandra Richards:


Size: 7.5" foot circ
Yarn: MadeleineTosh Tosh Sock, 2 skeins
Weight: Fingering
Cost to knit: $49 or €33.44

I love these socks. But then, I'm a sucker for socks. If I were to make these, I think I'd make them regular sock length. I've done knee high socks once, and that was enough for me, thankyouverymuch. Sub any sock yarn you like for these.

The first section is called Into The Woods, and is a spin on Red Riding Hood's cape. The first pattern is #2 Pompom Capelet by Kazekobo:


Size: 5 sizes, 38.5 - 50.5"
Yarn: Kauni Wool 100% wool, 656yds/150g, 3 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $61.50 or €41.98

I don't do capes/ponchos. This section is going to be hard to review for me. I think the shaping (if there is any) in this is awful, it's basically just a large tube to stick yourself into and a couple of pompoms dangling from it. Meh. Sub Cushendale 4ply yarn for just €34.50 if you dare.

Next is #3 Reindeer Capelet by Kazekobo again:


Size: 6 sizes 49 - 54"
Yarn: Manos del Uruguay Wool Classica 50% wool 50% merino, 138yds/100g, 7 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $97.65 or €66.79

Whenever I see colourwork reindeer, I think of this rather naughty pattern (Ravlink). I know which one I'd rather knit! It's not a bad pattern, I suppose, I like the dark & light reds together. But still, meh, a cape. Sorry. Sub with Debbie Bliss Cashermino Aran for €57.50 or Drops Alaska for a mere €30.

Next is #4 Tied Capelet by Kazekobo again. Seriously. 4 out of the 30 designs in this mag are by the same designer. What's that, 13% of the patterns in the mag by the one person? I feel a Josh Bennett coming on soon.


Size: 4 sizes, 44 - 56"
Yarn: Lornas Laces Shepherd Worsted 100% wool 225yds/113g, 3 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $57 or €38.98

A nice cable design, I'll give it that much. But again, it's just a tube you shove your head through. When you pull the string at the top I bet it bunches up and looks pants. Sub with Blue Faced Leicester for €24 or Brown Sheep Lambs Pride Worsted for €37.

Last of the same designer, #5 Cabled Capelet by Kazekobo:


Size: 5 sizes, 38 - 51.5"
Yarn: Plymouth Taria Tweed 40% merino, 30% silk, 30% Llama 135yds/100g, 5 skeins
Weight: Bulky
Cost to knit: $75 or €51.34

An interesting yarn combo. I'd like to try this yarn if it were available here. What's around the models neck? Is it some kind of feather boa? I think this pattern is awful. Anyone with any kind of a bosom would look ridicuous with this spread either side of it like a landing strip. Never mind if it were windy, it'd be flapping over your shoulders all the time. Batman is not a good look when running for a bus. Sub with Rowan Cocoon for €59.70 or Lambs Pride Bulky for €55.50.

The last pattern in this section is #6 Zippered Cape by Mari Lynn Patrick:


Size: 3 sizes, 26 - 30" (huh?)
Yarn: Knit One, Crochet Too Nautica 85% Microfiber 15% Nylon, 98yds/50g, 9 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $45 or €30.81

Am I right, is this yarn acrylic? If so, that's crappy yardage. Out of all the capes I like this one the best. I think the stitch pattern is great, and the shaping is probably the most flattering. Such a shame about the weird sizes. Sub away with any Aran acrylic, or spoil yourself with natural fibres for less than the recommended yarn using Drops Nepal for €28.60 or Kerry Woollen Mills Aran for €29.25

On we go to the second section, Magical Mohair. The first pattern is #7 Mohair Lace Dress by Laura Zukaite:

Size: 5 sizes, 27 - 40"
Yarn: Artyarns Silk Mohair 60% mohair, 40% silk 312yds/25g, 5 skeins
Artyarns Beaded Mohair 73% silk, 27% mohair 114yds/50g, 2 skeins
Weight: Lace and Worsted
Cost to knit: Brace yourselves. $224.53 or €154

Wowza. That's an expensive "dress", considering you'd have to wear something underneath it to cover your modesty. It is pretty though. Perhaps modified into a cardi or just the top half? Subs were interesting for this one. For the lace, try Manos Lace for €40. The worsted was very difficult to sub. I ended up giving up and suggest Rowan Kid Silk Haze for €69.65. A weird combo, I know. BTW, what's around the models neck? Is it some road kill she found in the forest?

Moving on swiftly to #8 Sheath and Wrap by Lynette Meek:



Size: 5 sizes 35 - 47.5"
Yarn: Hand Maiden Maiden Hair 67% silk, 23% mohair, 10% nylon 200yds/100g, 6 skeins
Fleece Artist Montague 70% mohair, 30% silk 550yds/125g, 4 skeins
Weight: The hand maiden is sport, I don't know what the Fleece Artist is.
Cost to knit: Couldn't find a price for the Fleece Artist, the Hand Maiden is a whopping $234 or €160.18

This is bat shit crazy stuff. The model looks like she's on crack. It's beautifully knit though, and makes the most of the yarn's colouring. But still. Bananas. This would have looked brilliant at Woodstock. I could find no details at all about the Fleece Artist yarn, Ravelry doesn't have it, and googling for ages turned up nothing else other than the fiber content. So, subbing is impossible.

On we go to #9 Bobble Tunic by Monica Hofstadter:


Size: 4 sizes, 24 - 36" waist. A waist measurement for a tunic? Huh.
Yarn: Malabrigo Lace 100% merino, 470yds/50g, 2 skeins
Rowan Kidsilk Haze 70% mohair, 30% silk 229yds/25g, 4 skeins
Cascade Kid Seta 70% mohair, 30% silk 300yds/25g, 4 skeins
Weight: All lace weight
Cost to knit: Malabrigo lace is available here for €19, as is the kid silk haze for €39. The Cascade costs $46.40 or €31.75

I kinda like this, in a mad I'd-never-wear-it-but-kinda-wish-I-could kind of way. But, why on earth are both KidSilk Haze and Kid Seta used? They're identical! If I didn't know better, I'd think the mag had made a typo and forgotten to leave out a potential yarn sponsor. Just use all KidSilk Haze with the Mal lace and you're good to go.

The next designer has a section all to her little self. Anna Sui. Again with the obsession with one designer. The first offering is #10 Flower Hat:


Size: 21" head circumference
Yarn: Cascade Heritage 75% merino, 25% nylon 437yds/100g, 6 skeins
Cascade New Kid Seta 70% merino, 30% silk 300yds/25g, 6 skeins
Weight: Fingering and lace
Cost to knit: $141.60 or €96.92

WTF. I mean, seriously. I know you could make this for peanuts by using up leftover sock scraps but would you really want to? This takes hideous to a whole other level imo. *Shudder* Sub with leftovers, or use Schoppel Wolle Solid Sock for €41.70 and Lang Mohair Luxe for €69.50.

Next is #11 Flower Vest:


Size: 2 sizes (!) 30 & 36"
Yarn: As above
Weight: as above
Cost to knit: $153.60 or €105.13

Just when you thought it couldn't get any worse, there's a top to match the hat. So, you can look like a hippy all over! I reckon those flowers would catch in everything too. Your heart would be broken picking jewellery, door handles, zippers and small children out of them. You could sub with the same yarns as above, for a total of €118.15. Yarn scraps might be preferable.

Skipping along nicely to the pick of the issue for me, #12 Granny Square Vest:


Size: One Size. Yes. ONE.
Yarn: Filatura Di Crosa Zarina Chine 100% merino 181yds/50g, 3 skeins
Filatura Di Crosa Zarina 100% merino 181yds/50g, 13 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $163.92 or €112.21

Oh my, where do I start? I love musicals. One of my favourites is Joseph and the amazing Technicolour Dreamcoat. I don't love it enough to wear the dreamcoat though. This would look perfect on one of the Brady Bunch, maybe the one who hates Marsha, I forget her name. Perhaps I'm being a tad cruel. I do like the granny squares on the front, they could be salvaged into something slightly less horrific perhaps. If you are a fan of both the Brady Bunch & Joseph, you could sub with Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, for a total of €130.90. You'd have to really love those shows for that though, yarn scraps might be preferable. Also, why the two different yarns? I don't know what the difference between them is. Either way, this is going on my mood board under the heading good for a laugh.

A new section now, Easy Knits, Easy Fits. The first offering is #13 Cowl by Faith Hale:


Size: One size
Yarn: Bergere de France Mohair and acrylic, polyamide, mohair blend. 98yds/50g 2 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: This yarn is discontinued

Seriously. Discontinued yarn? Ugh, sloppy. Not much to be said about this, it's a nice cowl, with an easy stitch pattern that looks well. Sub with Lang Mille Colori for €7.90 or Malabrigo Merino worsted for €11.50.

Onwards to #14 Scoop Neck Top by Faith Hale again:

Size: 4 sizes 51 - 63" (!)
Yarn: Bergere de France Origin Bambou 100% bamboo 87yds/50g, 14 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $154 or €105.48

hahaha. What a price. The more observant of you will notice it's the same picture as the cowl above. Nice. So, you can't see the neck coz of the cowl and you can't see the body coz of the monster handbag. Hmm. Looks fishy to me. If you like knitting in the dark and the surprise of how the garment will actually look at the end, sub with Artesano Alpaca 4 ply for €38.50. Go on. I dare you.

Next we have #15 Cropped Pullover by Lori Steinberg:


Size: 4 sizes 33 - 45"
Yarn: Berroco Bonsai 97% bamboo 3% nylon, 77yds/50g, 16 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $104 or €71.23

I love the models facial expression in the pic on the right, she channels the voice of Zsa Xsa Gabor in my head. "Dahlings, don't I look simply splendid? Achieving this level of beauty takes a looong time. With one pout I can have all the men under my spellllllll". I like the jumper, but the sleeves are mad stuff. Too short and too wide at the bottom. If I were to knit this, I'd rectify the sleeves and add several inches to the length. Subbing was difficult, as this is a tape yarn. I thought perhaps Rowan Pure Wool for €66.50 or Drops Bomull Lin for €58.80 could work.

Next we have #16 Boucle Vest by Lori Steinberg:


Size: 3 sizes, 18 - 22" back with. (I know, weird, huh?)
Yarn: Be Sweet Boucle 100% merino, 120yds/50g, 20 skeins
Weight: Bulky
Cost to knit: $320 or €219.11

OMG. I'm in shock at the price. So much so I think I need a drink to recover. Seriously? I know Be Sweet have a great ethical policy, but sadly I can't afford to agree with it. That's mad money. Plus, I can sub with Irish spun Cushendale Boucle Mohair for €76.45. Not that I would, though. Look at how big the models hips look. Yeah. I probably wouldn't fit through a door wearing that.

The last pattern in this section is #17 Tapered Pullover by Renee Lorion:


Size: 5 sizes, 36 - 52"
Yarn: AslanTrends Artesanal 40% cotton, 30% nylon, 30% alpaca 218yds/100g, 6 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $61.14 or €41.88

I like this jumper. It's a pity the model is clutching herself and hiding the bustline though. It's simple and pretty, possibly one I would make. This yarn is great stuff too. It's not the first time I've noticed how keenly priced AslanTrends are. I might seek some out when I head to the States. In the meantime, I'd probably sub with Artesano Aran for €99.50, or maybe not. How about Drops Nepal for €41.60? That's more like it.

Our next section is Inversion Therapy. Sounds like a torture technique. The onlyoffering is #18 Cable Rib Jacket by Vladimir Teriokhin:


Size: 3 sizes 46 - 54"
Yarn: Schulana Sumerino 100% merino, 93yds/50g, 27 skeins (!)
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: $348.30 or €238.60

Now I'm angry. Seriously, wtf is that price. That's absolutely outrageous. Shame on you Vogue for that kind of shitty yarn sponsorship. No way in hell will I ever spend that on a garment. I like the cable pattern and the front collar, but the drop shoulders enormous sleeves are awful. You'd probably save a ton of yarn by making them actually fit. Sub with Drops Alaska for a far more reasonable €77.50. I bet it will look better too. Sheesh. What a rip off Vogue.

Moving on swiftly to more pleasant (hopefully) offerings, another section called Lace Noir. Very French. First we have #19 Lace Pat Cardigan by Lisa Hoffman:


Size: 4 sizes 37 - 50.5"
Yarn: Koigu Mori 50% silk, 50% merino 185yds/50g, 12 skeins
Weight: Fingering
Cost to knit: $180 (on sale) or €123.37

Another expensive knit. It's pretty though without being too busy. I like it. You could sub any sock yarn you like, I don't think the silk is a must ingredient. In fact, it'd probably wear better without it. If you do want to go fancy, how about Sublime Baby Cashmere Silk 4 ply for €75 or Artesano Alpaca 4 ply for €60.50.

#20 Lace Vest by Kristin Omdahl is next:


Size: 2 sizes (tut tut) 35 & 38.5"
Yarn: Tilli Thomas Symphony 63% mohair, 18% nylon, 10% silk and 9% wool 345yds/85g, 3 skeins
Weight: Lace
Cost to knit: $117 or €80.10

Hmm. Not my kind of garment I confess. I really don't like gaping fronts like that, as I'm sure you're sick of me saying. The stitch pattern is pretty though. Sub Tilli Thomas Beaded Lace for an crazy expensive €167.65 or save a bundle and add your own beads to some Einband Lopi Laceweight for a ridiculously cheap $19.75. What a bargain.

Next we have #21 Lace Trimmed Top by Shiri Mor:


Size: 4 sizes 33 - 38.5" (boo)
Yarn: Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino 55% merino, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere 137yds/50g, 13 skeins
Debbie Bliss Angel 70% mohair, 24% silk 220yds/25g, 3 skeins
Weight: Sport & Lace
Cost to knit: Both are available here, for €104.20

I love this. It reminds me of Victorian costume dramas like Cranford or Bleak House. I think it's the waistband that does it. It's fab. I wish I could make this, but alas, it's only offered in wee-people sizes. *sigh* I might see if I can deconstruct the waistband and add it to a plain seater or cardi though, I think it's a great detail. If it will fit you, please make it so I can see it & poke it in real life!

On to #22 Lace Jacket by Iris Schreier:


Size: One size. They say it fits "most" Yeah. Boo.
Yarn: Artyarns Beaded Mohair 73% silk, 27% mohair 114yds/50g, 2 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $76 or €52

Another nice lace top that's sod all use to me. One size fits most. Mumble, grumble. Lazy if you ask me. Like before, I'd use a plain yarn and add my own beads to it. Cushendale Mohair is only €13.90 fer Gawds sake. That's a gift price.

Our final section (Yay! I hear you say) is Knit Construction. No, there are no naked sweaty builders, alas. The first pattern is #23 Welted Pullover by John Brinegar. Another VK regular:

Size: 3 sizes 35 - 41"
Yarn: Trendsetter Victory 77% nylon 23% cotton, 85yds/50g, 18 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $171 or €117

Another discontinued yarn as far as I can see. Sheesh.
€117 for acrylic? No thank you. But, what the eff is the model wearing on her legs? Are they some sort of industrial suspenders, leg braces or heavy metal rocker type chaps? God alone knows. As for the pattern, I like the v neck and the sleeves. I think if I were to knit it, I'd a) wear normal person trousers, and b) make it into a waist length jumper. Sub for natural fibres for a fraction of the price with Kerry Woollen Mills Aran for €48.75 if you agree. Otherwise, knit with an acrylic blend to avoid the dreaded derriere sag.

#24 Drop Shoulder Top by Rosemary Drysedale is next:


Size: 6 sizes, 43 - 58"
Yarn: Prism Tencel Tape 100% tencel 10yds/50g, 13 skeins
Weight: DK
Cost to knit: $193.05 or €132.10

Prism yarns are something else when it comes to pricing. Really and truly. All their stuff seems like mad money. For tencel? Nah. As far as I can see, this pattern is a plain ol sweater with a "design feature" that looks like a rip in the rib with some shaping above it. If it were me, I'd be afraid people would think I'd put on some weight and had to cut the rib in order to make it fit. but then I'm weird like that. Maybe you like it. If so, sub with Drops Safran for a mere €27 or King Cole Bamboo Cotton for €34.65.

On to #25 Cabled Poncho by Daniela Nii:


Size: 3 sizes, 66 - 77" (I kid you not. It must be a length measurement)
Yarn: Blue Sky Alpacas Melange 100% Alpaca 110yds/5og, 19 skeins
Weight: Sport
Cost to knit: $182.40 or €124.86

Another mental price. And another poncho/cape thingy. Did we not have enough earlier on? Apparently not. I like the cable pattern, it could be a nice sweater if you cut out the plain bits on the side & sewed it up! Sub with Artesano Alpaca for €60.50 or Drops Alpaca for a nicer €42.35. I won't be.

On to the final 5 patterns! Yay!
#26 Boatneck Top by Sinje Ollen:


Size: 3 sizes, 50 - 67" (?)
Yarn: Classic Elite Silky Alpaca Lace 70% Alpaca 30% silk, 440yd/50g, 8 skeins
Weight: Lace
Cost to knit: $87.60 or €59.93

I love this. I wish I could wear it. It's a gorgeous stitch pattern, and sits beautifully. Over a white summer dress I think this would be fab. I love the detail on the arms, too:



It's just great. What a shame I can't make it. Although, those bananas measurements are stated to be bust measurements. Hmm. Dare I? I could sub Manos Lace for €80, Malabrigo Lace for €76, or maybe make it in sock weight yarn for a larger, drapier look?

#27 Striped Tunic is next, by the one and only Josh Bennett! I knew he'd show up eventually!


Size: 5 sizes, 47 - 55"
Yarn: Brown Sheep Lambs Pride Worsted
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: Available here for €92.50

Meh. It's a bit manly for me. Plus, I hate contradictory garments. If it's cold enough to want a long sweater with a turtleneck, why the hell make it with short sleeves? If you like it, sub with Kerry Woollen Mills Aran for €58.50.

#28 Colorwork Poncho by Deborah Newton is next:


Size: 4 sizes 39 - 46.5"
Yarn: Pear Tree Yarn Supersoft 10ply 100% merino 180yds/100g, 17 skeins
Weight: Aran
Cost to knit: Brace yourselves. Get a chair or a coffee or a stiff drink ready. $442 or €302.50

OH MY GOD. €302 for another effing poncho? Who the hell do you think reads this magazine, the queen or Melinda Gates? That's just tipped the crazy scales. For real. The stitch pattern is your lovely basic Norwegian style colourwork, so why the lunatic price? If it were knit with Qiviut I might understand, but merino? One thing I am thankful for is it saved me from having another poncho pattern rant. That must be 10 poncho patterns in this issue. Jesus. We'll all look like Clint Eastwood in those western movies this Autumn, a knitty posse all wearing ponchos and chewing cheroots. If you like the garment, sub with the regular sub Kerry Woollen Mills Aran for €87.75 or Drops Alaska for €95.

Our penultimate pattern is #29 Long Vest by John Brinegar again. New designers will never get a look in the way Vogue over use the same ones again & again:


Size: 6 sizes. Back measurements 15.5 - 25"
Yarn: Rowan Lima 84% alpaca, 8% merino, 8% nylon 109yds/50g, 17 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: Available here for €144.50

It's a long straight vest with a seed stitch border. Nothing else. Yawn city. And for €144? I could do WAY better myself. If you like the simplicity of it, sub with Lang Merino + for €82.65.

It's the last pattern! Hurrah! #30 Relaxed Cardigan by Mari Lynn Patrick:


Size: 6 sizes, 34 - 45"
Yarn: Zealana Heron 80% merino, 20% possum 109yds/50g, 19 skeins
Weight: Worsted
Cost to knit: $169.67 or €116.15

This could have been so much more I feel. I like the collar and the closure method with the band of ribbing, but it's so shapeless it turns me right off. I could see that just hanging down from my boobs in a most unflattering way. An almost success. Plus the yarn price is another doozy. Sub with Drops Nepal for €67.60 if you like, but I'd be inclined to try and add some shaping to the waist.

So that's your lot! The over riding impressions for me from this issue are ponchos, really expensive yarn, poor sizing and over exposure to some designers. There are a couple of interesting garments with one I want to make but compared to the Spring/Summer issue, I think it's a bit of a let down. Here's hoping they improve for Winter.

Let me know what you think, and if you'd like to see any changes to my reviews.

Good knitting!